Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Venice

 
My preference for cruising is to start the cruise in one port and end the cruise in another, so you can spend more time in both port cities.  Possible ports for a Med cruise include Rome, Athens, Istanbul, and Venice...depending on the itinerary of the cruise.  Another plus is when the ship is docked in the departing port for 2 days.  You basically use the ship as your hotel before you set sail, saving some $$$ on hotel costs.  However, I usually advise going in at least one extra day early, just in case there are flight delays or lost luggage, or you want to see more.  Venice is a very expensive city, so you want to save where you can.  Some cruises do a 2 day dock in the middle of the itinerary, too. 
 
Venice is usually on everyone's bucket list.  I'm lucky enough to cross that one off the list, as I've been there twice. 
 
Of all the cities in the world, only Paris comes close to matching Venice for beauty and ro­mance.

  
If you want to get away from San Marco or the Rialto Bridge areas, which are full of tourists, go off into the tangled passageways, which are an attraction, too.  Just remember how you got there! 

 
You'll find pretty residential neighborhoods - homes with flower boxes and clean laundry hanging out of the windows.  Best places to eat are the little trattorias where the locals go.  



There are no cars in Venice and people walk...a lot!!!  Venice is mostly narrow canals and streets spread over more than 100 islands, and boat is the major form of transportation. It's kind of funny.  We put cars in garages, they put boats in garages.






Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Plaza) is where you'll find the renowned Basilica di San Marco.  Definitely worth going inside for a peak.  The Basilica is the primary tourist attraction (during the summer expect to wait in line).  Remember, if you aren't dressed appropriately, you will be sent away.  Ladies, be sure your knees and shoulders are covered.  


 
There are a lot of cafes near St. Mark's and it's a great place to people watch.  The cost of coffee at a café vs. "takeaway" coffee is really pricey.  Hey, the view isn't free if you want to sit at a café!  The pigeons also like San Marco -- you may want to wear a hat.

If you're a museum freak, the best is Gallerie dell' Accademia (Boat Line 82 to Accademia) with Venetian art from the 14th - 18th centuries.
 
The Grand Canal is Venice's version of a super highway and runs through the heart of the city. This is the place to be!  You'll find fabulous views of palazzos (best way to traverse the Grand Canal is via vaporetto, line #1). The Grand Canal also divides the city; the east side contains the best-known tourist attractions, while the west is more residential (but this is the area that has great trattorias (little restaurants that are inexpensive and have great food) and local shops).
Remember, there are no "streets" across the canal, and every time you cross over a canal it's up a flight of stairs, over the bridge, and down a flight of stairs.  Just a short walk to the grocery store from our hotel warranted crossing at least 4 bridges.  Keep that in mind if you arrive by train and are hauling luggage.  If you want to get from one side the Grand Canal to the other, you have 3 places to cross: Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge and Scalzi Bridge.
 

A gondola ride is the ultimate touristy thing to do, and you'll see different views of Venice -- from the tiny canals.  Just like taking a van in Rome that can go places a large tour bus can't.  Gondolas typically take two to six people, and you pay per trip, not per person.  The ride lasts anywhere from 30 to 50 minutes. Negotiate the rate before you get in and plan to shell out about 80-90 euros +/-.  Remember, you are traveling in dirty canal water, so there is a little stench.  Remember that Venice  was built on mudflats and sandbanks.  It's only a myth that the canals are open sewers; the smell of the canals is from algae and silt, not sewage.
 
Don't forget to explore the islands of Murano and Burano and stop at Torcello to visit the first Cathedral in Venice.  Murano is famous for its glass blowing.  Be sure to watch the glass blowers as they create works of art.  Best place to get some glass, and rather than chance getting it broken, consider having it shipped home. 
 
Then head to Burano to see picturesque fishermen's houses painted in bright pastel colors, and of course to buy some of the famous lace. Be careful.  Some Lace makers are becoming rare, so be sure you are getting authentic lace.  Some stores sell imported lace if you get my drift.  Same kind we can get here from our friends in China or other countries.    
 
Still looking for more?  If you go into Venice a few days early, be sure to head up to Padua (Padova). Padua is one of the prettiest cities in It­aly, with the oldest botanical gardens in all of Europe.  The big tourist attraction is the Scrovegni Chapel (Cappella degli Scrovegni), with its priceless frescoes by Giotto. Think about getting a Padova Card. It lasts for 48 hours, and also offers free travel on local buses and discounts for additional attractions.  You'll find it at museums and local tourist offices, or online when you are making a booking for the Scrovegni Chapel.  You'll still have to pay the chapel's booking fee, but the entrance is free and so is public transport around town.  But Padua is an easy town to walk around.  If you want a map, stop at tourist information next to the train station.
 
The Scrovegni Chapel is between the train station and the city centre. Take the main street opposite the station and keep straight. Just after a park you come to the Civic Museums. The entrance is a short way down a side-street.  A little hard to find because there aren't a lot of signs. 
 
While you're in Padua, make time to visit the Basilica of Saint Anthony is said to rival St. Peter's in Rome.

 
 Ciao!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Friday, June 20, 2014

Tallinn, Estonia

We're looking at two different regions to cruise to - the Med and Baltic regions.  We've looked at one port in the Med so far, and it's time to look at a port on a Baltic cruise. 

Tallinn, the capital and largest city of Estonia, was part of the Soviet Union for about 50 years. Now, Estonia is part of the EU and uses the Euro instead of the kroon.  Being the math whiz that I am, love when you only have to worry about one kind of currency.

Upon first glance, Tallinn's Old Town will make you feel like you've stepped into a magical and medieval storybook, complete with ancient buildings dating back to the 14th century and quaint cobblestone streets.  Reminds me of other places we've visited, like Girona and Carcassonne.  


If you want to squeeze as much as possible into your visit to Tallinn, start with a walk on the medieval wall around Old Town.  The wall is about a mile long and still has 26 towers.  Since the wall is above the city, you'll have to climb 45 steps to get to the wall.  Wow!  Just 45 steps?  We could probably sprint those!  Other walls we may have climbed were free, but this one costs 1.30 Euros to climb.  You're thinking "they want me to pay to climb steps?" Yep.  I'm starting to see a pattern here - paying to climb the steps!  Remember, this wall is old...and the stairways are steep, dark and narrow.  Not good if you get claustrophobic or want to strut about town in your stiletto heels. 

Old Town is easy to walk around on your own.  But if you don't do a tour or do a little web research or get a good tour book before you go, or you'll be clueless about what you're looking at.  You can also take a free walking tour of Tallinn with a local.  Yes, the tours are free, but you are usually expected to tip the guide when the tour is over.  Some guides are better than others, which we learned in Paris - our morning guide was great, the afternoon guide just so-so.

Many people say Tallinn is a mix of Scandinavia and Russia, and you can find some unique food specialties such as Herring, boar, elk & rootbeet salad, or maybe beer soup with ice cream and sauna-smoked lamb leg.  Think I'll be heading back to the ship for lunch or head to the local bakery!

 
A must see is the top floor of the Sokos Hotel Viru, which houses a small K.B.G. museum. The door has a sign in Russian that reads, “There is nothing here”.  The story goes that their surveillance techniques were pretty darn sophisticated and there were "bugs" in the sauna.  Really?  Even the ashtrays were bugged (how I have no idea).  Tours are given in English at 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. and the guides tell stories about life during the Soviet rule, which they say are worth the price of admission (7 Euros).  The hotel also gives you the best views of Tallinn Bay and Old Town.  I'm betting you can take an elevator vs. climbing steps to the top! 

The onion-domed Estonian Orthodox Cathedral, St. Alexander Nevsky, is up Pikk Jalg to Toompea, the hill overlooking the Old Town. On the way back, head through the Danish King’s Garden, which also has great views of the Old Town.

About 30 minutes from port is Kadriorg Park that houses Kadriorg Palace, a former residence of the Czar.  It was built in the 1700's as a summer residence by Peter the Great for Catherine, and  Kadriorg means "Valley of Catherine" in Estonian.  Now it's an art museum in a seaside park and has some of the best Baroque art in Northern Europe.

In Tallinn, stores and street vendors sell amber jewelry and linen.  You'll also find handmade woolen sweaters, glass art, juniper wood products, and leather goods.  The woolen sweaters are the same quality as those you'll find in Stockholm but you can get 'em cheaper in Tallinn.  The most unique items?  Communist memorabilia found at antique stores. 

Be careful of pickpockets! They operate in pairs -- one distracts you in front and the other grabs your wallet from behind.

If you want to see it all, take the HOHO (hop on, hop off) bus.  Currently 16 Euros and 33 places of interest. 

Here are a few videos to watch about Tallinn: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAC8F_2qTTY, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nEUF4LWhcE, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_U8xzIY5R8,  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O4PEtjvaXE

Ciao!

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Dubrovnik, Croatia

After his first visit, George Bernard Shaw said, “Those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik.”

Dubrovnik has become a popular cruise port on many Mediterranean cruises, and is located in the southern part of Croatia on the Adriatic Sea. 

You will probably have about 8 hours to spend in Dubrovnik, a place where you can find ancient stone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets and ramparts rising high above red-tiled rooftops.  The streets are pedestrian only - no crazy drivers - which makes it easy to walk around.  Easy in the sense you don't worry about traffic - but you will have to be careful of cobblestone streets or "slick" marble streets (if it rains), and good walking shoes are a must.  Leave the stilettos at home! This "Adriatic Pearl" (as it is known) is one of the most beautiful places in the world.

The port is about 15 minutes from Old Town by car/bus/shuttle.  Once in Old Town, you can walk around and explore on your own, which saves money that you might have spent on a tour or excursion.  Of course, if you would prefer a guided tour, you can book one with the cruise line or  with a local vendor.  Many people say Dubrovnik reminds them of Venice - but instead of the canals they have marble streets.  We'll see. 

Dubrovnik is a walled city, and like Girona and Carcassonne, and you can walk the 1.3-mile wall which is about 80 feet above ground.  If you want to see some amazing views, this is where you'll see them!  What would one of our trips be without a lot of steps...and you do have to climb a lot of steps to get to the top of that wall.  Ah, and they make you pay to climb those steps, too.  I guess climbing the steps in Mad Ludwig's castles and the metros in Barcelona were good practice. 

Another way to see those amazing views of the city is from the Dubrovnik Cable Car at the top of Mount Srdj.  I'm all about the cable cars. 

History buff?  Then you might want to spend the day visiting Onofrio Fountain, the Franciscan Monastery, and the Rectors' Palace.

A must see is Buza Bar, which is built on the side of a cliff overlooking the water.  They have 2 bars in Dubrovnik - one of them doesn't have any rails which means you are up close and personal with the sea.


 
Croatia is currently NOT using the Euro, so that means another form of currency you'll need.  Want to take home a memento from Dubrovnik?  Best choices are crocheted doilies which the women in town make by hand.  A lot of artists flock to Dubrovnik so you might score a cool painting.  Of course, then you have to wonder how you'll get it home. 

It's going to be hard making a choice on where we go.  You learn about places like Dubrovnik, see pictures of the clear blue water and you think definitely Med.  But then you look at the architecture in St. Petersburg, and you're reminded that 30 years ago we probably couldn't have visited Russia as easily as we can today, so why let that opportunity pass us by? 

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so check out these YouTube videos:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiEJJxJLr-o, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lh4hP5gzUh8, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vP7sXaXIeg.

Ciao!

 

$$$$$

The biggest stumbling block in going on any trip is $$$$.  Our trips have always been very affordable in the grand scheme of things.  In fact, we're very spoiled because we've gone on some great trips for not a lot of money - Germany was only $1,200 and the last trip was $1,323 (land portions).

Cruising will most likely be a little more expensive...but you have to weigh the options.  One thing to keep in mind is cruising includes all of your meals and you can eat 24/7 (although I wouldn't advise it). You also unpack just once, and you don't have to pack up and leave for the next destination every 2-3 days.

Looking into my crystal ball, it's probably going to cost between $1,800 and $2,200 for just the cruise portion of the trip.  Figure another $1,000+/- for air fare.  And don't forget your spending money. You'll also have some incidentals, like shuttle from and to the airport, tips, meals you may eat in town, things you'll want to see and do in the various ports, etc.  Bottom line - about $3,500 to $4,000 a person.

A lot of variables contribute to the cost:  the cruise line, the length of the cruise, where we go, when we go, and whether we can get any special deals.  That's one of the reasons why we start planning so far in advance.  It gives us time to figure out where we want to go so if a great deal comes along, we're ready to make a decision and make a deposit.

So...how are you going to come up with the money you need for the trip?  No time like the present to start saving your pennies...um, dollars.  If you start saving tomorrow, by this time next year, you could have a big chunk of your cruise paid for.  Seriously.  Save a $1 in week 1, $2 in week 2, and you have $3, and so on, finishing up on a high note of $52 in week 52.  By the time you get to week 52, you should have a little more than $1,300...and if you do the same thing next year, you will have about $2,600 by the time we're ready to pay for the cruise.

When we get ready to book the cruise, the deposit will be around $450.  The final payment will be due about 60 days prior to sailing, so figure sometime in the spring of 2016.

Start feeding that piggy bank and make your dream of cruising in Europe come true!